Introduction

KICKS ON COURT

HOW TENNIS SHOES IMPACTED POP CULTURE 

AN HISTORICAL DIGITAL EXHIBIT PRESENTED BY

Kicks on Court, an historical digital exhibit presented by ITHF x FILA

By Gerald Flores

Open for Business
Billie Jean King

adidas® tennis shoes worn by Billie Jean King, 1973

ITHF Museum Collection

Photo Credit: Russ Adams Productions

Billie Jean King

adidas® tennis shoes worn by Billie Jean King, 1973

ITHF Museum Collection

Photo Credit: Russ Adams Productions

The beginning of the Open Era in 1968 not only opened the doors for the world’s best players to compete in tennis’ most important tournaments, but also for players to freely and openly receive sponsorships from sportswear brands. Footwear began to shift from just tools of the trade to an expression of players’ style and new endorsement opportunities.

With the advent of color television and some major tournaments lifting the rules on the color schemes of apparel, tennis players began showcasing more personality with their footwear. The US Open started allowing pastel colors to be worn for the first time in 1970 because television viewers had been complaining that they could not tell the difference between players who were all wearing all-white clothing. 

Billie Jean King wore blue suede adidas sneakers during the early 1970s and made the shoes famous during her pivotal 1973 Battle of the Sexes match against Bobby Riggs. They were the first tennis sneakers to ever be made in a color other than white.

Scroll
1958

"AZ" Spiked Tennis Shoes worn by Alex Olmedo during Davis Cup play

Wilson Sporting Goods (American)

ITHF Museum Collection

1963

Keds “Court King” Tennis Shoes Advertisement 

ITHF Museum Collection

1969

Spiked Tennis Shoes worn by Rod Laver at the 1969 US Open

Unknown Maker

ITHF Museum Collection

1973

Tennis Shoes worn by Billie Jean King

adidas (German)

ITHF Museum Collection



The era of Personalities
Björn Borg

Photo Credit: John Russell Collection / ITHF

John McEnroe

McEnroe’s defiant attitude and counterculture style helped make a not-made-for-tennis Nike sneaker popular in the sport.

ITHF Museum Collection

Chris Evert is shown here in action at the 1983 Wimbledon Championships wearing a pair of her iconic red and white Converse sneakers. Tennis shoes worn by Chris Evert at the 1983 Roland Garros Championships

Chris Evert's iconic red and white Converse sneakers

Photo Credit: John Russell Collection / ITHF

ITHF Museum Collection

Andre Agassi typified an anti-country club approach to tennis
Andre Agassi typified an anti-country club approach to tennis
Photo Credit: Mike Baz
Björn Borg

Photo Credit: John Russell Collection / ITHF

The tennis sportswear market started booming with more athletic brands finding new lanes in the sport. There were landmark partnerships in the late 1970s like Swedish champion Björn Borg's deal with FILA that produced stylish looks from the pinstriped polos and Settanta jackets that opened eyes to a new way of seeing style and sneaker design in tennis. Borg’s iconic look would inspire a new generation of fashion mavericks in the sport as the 1980s ushered in new personalities, footwear designs and marketing to complement them.

John McEnroe

McEnroe’s defiant attitude and counterculture style helped make a not-made-for-tennis Nike sneaker popular in the sport.

ITHF Museum Collection

Eccentric tennis star and New York-native John McEnroe helped broaden American brand Nike’s presence in the game. McEnroe’s defiant attitude and counterculture style helped make a not-made-for-tennis Nike sneaker popular in the sport. In 1986, Nike sent the player a prototype of the Nike Air Trainer 1, a sneaker that was intended for cross-training in the gym. The brand instructed McEnroe to not wear them during tournament play, which he disregarded and cemented the mid-top leather sneaker with a forefoot strap in pop culture in the process by debuting the Nike Trainer 1 on the tennis court. The training shoes were later exclusively modified for McEnroe to play on grass and clay surfaces. Nike later released marketing with McEnroe in the sneaker walking through the streets if New York City in a trench coat themed “Rebel with a Cause,” which was a departure from how most sports brands were advertising their tennis athletes at the time.

Chris Evert is shown here in action at the 1983 Wimbledon Championships wearing a pair of her iconic red and white Converse sneakers. Tennis shoes worn by Chris Evert at the 1983 Roland Garros Championships

Chris Evert's iconic red and white Converse sneakers

Photo Credit: John Russell Collection / ITHF

ITHF Museum Collection

On the women’s side, Chris Evert would receive a signature tennis sneaker from Converse. By the time the Converse Chris Evert was released, the International Tennis Hall of Famer had already been recognized as Associated Press’ Female Athlete of the year several times, as well as Sports Illustrated’s Sportswoman of the Year. Her signature Converse sneaker was advertised as specifically designed for a woman’s foot and featured Evert’s name emblazoned on the tongue.

Andre Agassi typified an anti-country club approach to tennis
Andre Agassi typified an anti-country club approach to tennis
Photo Credit: Mike Baz

The 1980s also saw Nike signing a then 16-year-old Andre Agassi. The player’s unique look and style of play would carry the brand’s tennis sneakers into the next decade and beyond. Similar to Borg’s unabashed style, whom Agassi admitted looking up to, Agassi typified an anti-country club approach to tennis. Agassi’s Nike collection included fluorescent colorways, audacious patterns and materials like denim. His signature sneaker, the Air Tech Challenge II, personified irreverence with a visible Nike Air unit for cushioning and hot lava color accents that were later spotted on musicians like Megadeth guitarist David Mustaine and even former president George H.W. Bush.  

The adidas Edberg Comp was a bulky tech-heavy signature sneaker designed for Swedish tennis ace Stefan Edberg after his first Grand Slam win in Australia. Similar to Agassi’s Tech Challenge, the Edberg’s colors spoke to the era with accents of deep purple, pink, and bright blues.

1983

Tennis Shoes worn by Chris Evert at Roland-Garros

Converse (American)

ITHF Museum Collection

ca. 1986-89

Tennis Shoes worn by Hana Mandlíková

Reebok (American)

ITHF Museum Collection

A new millennium

Jennifer Capriati in the singles final at the 2001 Austrlian Open

Photo Credit: AP

Serena Williams at the 2002 Roland Garros ChampionshipsTennis Shoe worn by Serena Williams at the 2002 Roland Garros Championships

Serena Williams' Puma Extrena WN

ITHF Museum Collection

Photo Credit: Mike Baz

Jennifer Capriati in the singles final at the 2001 Austrlian Open

Photo Credit: AP

Heading into the 2000s, technology in tennis sneakers began to shift. Performance sneakers for tennis progressively became lighter weight and lower profile when compared to the shoes of the 1980s and 1990s, thanks to new forms of cushioning and lightweight, synthetic, breathable material innovations in the upper.

From a marketing perspective, female tennis pros continued to build off the foundation set by Hall of Famers like Billie Jean King and Chris Evert. Athletes like Jennifer Capriati were connecting with brands that aligned with their personas and style of play.

With her career making a comeback after hiatus, Capriati signed with FILA at the turn of the millennium. Commonalties between the player and the company were obvious as both had Italian heritage and the brand itself was also making a comeback in the sport. The partnership proved to be kismet as the tennis pro went from being ranked No. 139 to No. 1 in the world in FILA's Torneo shoe.

Serena Williams at the 2002 Roland Garros ChampionshipsTennis Shoe worn by Serena Williams at the 2002 Roland Garros Championships

Serena Williams' Puma Extrena WN

ITHF Museum Collection

Photo Credit: Mike Baz

Serena Williams began her illustrious tennis career endorsing Puma and won six Grand Slam titles wearing the brand’s shoes that featured its Cell cushioning technology. One of the most memorable from Williams line with Puma was a gold pair of the Puma Extrena WN that she wore to win the 2002 French Open.

After Williams’ five-year deal with Puma ended, she went on to sign a sponsorship with Nike where she won 17 more Grand Slams in the brand’s sneakers and was utilized in the Beaverton, Oregon-based company’s marketing campaigns outside of just tennis. To celebrate William’s 23rd Grand Slam title, Nike recreated a successful Michael Jordan ad from 1985 with Serena Williams’ feet. The campaign was not just a nod to Jordan’s Chicago Bulls number of 23, but also feted a crossover collection of tennis sneakers in the style of the original Air Jordan. The sneakers, which used Williams Nike Flare as a canvas, showed the crossover appeal of tennis shoes into overall sneaker culture. 

The runways turn into tennis courts
FILA Original tennis shoesFILA T1 Mid


FILA x Gosha Rubchinskiy Original Tennis sneakers (white) & FILA T-1 Mid sneakers (black)

Photo credit: Fondazione FILA Museum

FILA x ITHF PackerFILA x ITHF Packer

FILA x Packer x International Tennis Hall of Fame sneakers

Photo credit: Fondazione FILA Museum

Pharrell Williams wearing Stan Smith shoes at the 2nd Annual "Rebels With a Cause" Gala benefiting the USC Center for Applied Molecular Medicine at Paramount Pictures Studios on March 20, 2014.

Photo by Dan Steinberg/Invision/AP Images

Some People Think I'm a Shoe!Some People Think I'm a Shoe!

Some People Think I'm a Shoe! Written by Stan Smith and foreword by Pharrell Williams

©2018 Rizzoli

FILA Original tennis shoesFILA T1 Mid


FILA x Gosha Rubchinskiy Original Tennis sneakers (white) & FILA T-1 Mid sneakers (black)

Photo credit: Fondazione FILA Museum

Retro tennis sneakers from the 1970s and 1980s have also served as canvases for designers in streetwear and on the runways of fashion. Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy collaborated with FILA on a limited collection of tennis sneakers and apparel that added Italian luxury details to FILA Tennis.

FILA x ITHF PackerFILA x ITHF Packer

FILA x Packer x International Tennis Hall of Fame sneakers

Photo credit: Fondazione FILA Museum

The brand also collaborated with sneaker and streetwear boutique Packer Shoes and the International Tennis Hall of Fame on limited edition versions of the FILA Original Tennis and T-1 Mid sneakers that debuted during the 2015 Hall of Fame Tennis Championships in Newport.

Pharrell Williams wearing Stan Smith shoes at the 2nd Annual "Rebels With a Cause" Gala benefiting the USC Center for Applied Molecular Medicine at Paramount Pictures Studios on March 20, 2014.

Photo by Dan Steinberg/Invision/AP Images

After adidas took the Stan Smith sneaker off the market for a period of two years in 2012 and 2013, the sneaker would have a major comeback in the world of fashion. Celine designer Phoebe Philo took her final bow on the runway in a pair of the sneakers. Other designers such as Raf Simons, Stella McCartney, Yohji Yamamoto, and Pharrell Williams have all used the Stan Smith as a base for their product collaborations with adidas. The brand itself has also re-released several different versions of the shoe in updated materials and for different special projects.

Some People Think I'm a Shoe!Some People Think I'm a Shoe!

Some People Think I'm a Shoe! Written by Stan Smith and foreword by Pharrell Williams

©2018 Rizzoli

Full Circle

Perhaps there’s no better representation of the tennis sneaker’s cultural significance than the adidas Stan Smith. While it may not be used as a performance tennis sneaker now the silhouette has been touched multiple genres, from hip-hop to sneaker culture to high-fashion, and even sustainable design.

Sneakers and the sport of tennis have now been interconnected for over 60 years, so much so that the term tennis shoes can be interchanged with the word sneaker. While the tennis shoe has come a long way since the crude rubber soles melded together with canvas of the early 1900s, they mean nothing to the culture without the people who play tennis in them.

Gerald Flores is a writer who's been published in Esquire, Complex, and The New York Times. He formerly served as the editor-in-chief of Sole Collector magazine and contributed to and edited Complex's first book on sneakers "Complex Presents Sneaker of the Year: The Best Since 85." You can follow him on social media at @ImgeraLd.


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  • "In the Beginning" background photo: ITHF Museum Collection
  • "Open for Business" background photo of Billie Jean King: Russ Adams Productions
  • "The First Faces of Tennis Sneakers" background photo of Stan Smith: ITHF Museum Collection
  • "A New Era of Personalities" background photo of John McEnroe & Björn Borg: Getty Images
  • "From the Courts to the Streets" background photo of Andre Agassi: Mike Baz
  • "A New Millennium" background photo of Serena Williams: John Russell Collection / ITHF
  • "The Tennis Courts Turn Into Runways" background photo of Maria Sharapova: AP
  • "The Runways Turns Into Tennis Courts" background photo: ITHF Museum Collection

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