HOW TENNIS SHOES IMPACTED POP CULTURE
AN HISTORICAL DIGITAL EXHIBIT PRESENTED BY
By Gerald Flores


Women's "Leisure" Tennis Shoes, ca. 1900
ITHF Museum Collection


Pair of Keds shoes, ca. 1925
ITHF Museum Collection


Women's "Leisure" Tennis Shoes, ca. 1900
ITHF Museum Collection
Tennis shoes have come a long way since the game’s inception in the late 1800s. The sport’s earliest fashion standard once had women running around in heeled boots that raised high above the ankle to play, while men wore loafers that, at times, were spiked at the soles for grip. The era’s tennis uniform also usually included layers of linen and a restrictive corset for women and starched shirts with long sleeves for men, which spoke to the societal structures and norms of the day.


Pair of Keds shoes, ca. 1925
ITHF Museum Collection
As norms were abandoned as the sport and its athletes evolved with the years, so did the footwear. As the first ever rubber sneakers were invented and became more mass produced during the first World War, they became more widely incorporated by tennis players.
Rules regarding on-court apparel became more progressive throughout the 1930s, 1940s, and 1950s, allowing athletes to play the game in more casual attire like shorts, unstarched cotton shirts, and sleeveless dresses. By the time tennis entered the mid-to-late 1960s, the significance of sneakers in the sport was ripe for change.

Advertisement for J. Sparkes Hall & Son tennis shoes
ITHF Museum Collection

Advertisement for J. Parker & Co. tennis shoes
ITHF Museum Collection

Women's Leisure Tennis Shoes
Hood Rubber Company (American)
ITHF Museum Collection

A.G. Spalding & Bros. advertisement for tennis shoes
ITHF Museum Collection

Advertisement from American Lawn Tennis, April 15, 1924
ITHF Museum Collection

Spiked Tennis Shoes worn by Helen Hull Jacobs
Unknown Maker
ITHF Museum Collection


adidas® tennis shoes worn by Billie Jean King, 1973
ITHF Museum Collection
Photo Credit: Russ Adams Productions


adidas® tennis shoes worn by Billie Jean King, 1973
ITHF Museum Collection
Photo Credit: Russ Adams Productions
The beginning of the Open Era in 1968 not only opened the doors for the world’s best players to compete in tennis’ most important tournaments, but also for players to freely and openly receive sponsorships from sportswear brands. Footwear began to shift from just tools of the trade to an expression of players’ style and new endorsement opportunities.
With the advent of color television and some major tournaments lifting the rules on the color schemes of apparel, tennis players began showcasing more personality with their footwear. The US Open started allowing pastel colors to be worn for the first time in 1970 because television viewers had been complaining that they could not tell the difference between players who were all wearing all-white clothing.
Billie Jean King wore blue suede adidas sneakers during the early 1970s and made the shoes famous during her pivotal 1973 Battle of the Sexes match against Bobby Riggs. They were the first tennis sneakers to ever be made in a color other than white.

"AZ" Spiked Tennis Shoes worn by Alex Olmedo during Davis Cup play
Wilson Sporting Goods (American)
ITHF Museum Collection

Keds “Court King” Tennis Shoes Advertisement
ITHF Museum Collection

Spiked Tennis Shoes worn by Rod Laver at the 1969 US Open
Unknown Maker
ITHF Museum Collection

Tennis Shoes worn by Billie Jean King
adidas (German)
ITHF Museum Collection


adidas® Stan Smith Supreme Tennis Shoes, 1974
ITHF Museum Collection


adidas® Stan Smith Supreme Tennis Shoes, 1974
ITHF Museum Collection
adidas was one of the first sports brands to sponsor tennis players. Not only did the brand support Billie Jean King, but it also created iconic signature sneakers for athletes like Rod Laver and Stan Smith.
The brand developed its first leather tennis sneaker in the early 1960s, during a time when canvas uppers on shoes was the norm. It featured a pimpled rubber outsole for grip and ankle padding. The sneaker was originally fronted by French pro Robert Haillet, and even had his name branded on the side panels in earlier models. When Haillet retired in 1971, the sneaker was endorsed by American champion Stan Smith after he signed with adidas that year.
In 1978, that leather sneaker, which was widely seen as one of the best and most popular tennis shoes at the time, officially became known as the Stan Smith. Not only did the shoe now feature the player’s name on its heel tab under the adidas trefoil logo, but also an image of his face on the sneaker’s tongue.

Photo Credit: John Russell Collection / ITHF

McEnroe’s defiant attitude and counterculture style helped make a not-made-for-tennis Nike sneaker popular in the sport.
ITHF Museum Collection


Chris Evert's iconic red and white Converse sneakers
Photo Credit: John Russell Collection / ITHF
ITHF Museum Collection


Photo Credit: John Russell Collection / ITHF
The tennis sportswear market started booming with more athletic brands finding new lanes in the sport. There were landmark partnerships in the late 1970s like Swedish champion Björn Borg's deal with FILA that produced stylish looks from the pinstriped polos and Settanta jackets that opened eyes to a new way of seeing style and sneaker design in tennis. Borg’s iconic look would inspire a new generation of fashion mavericks in the sport as the 1980s ushered in new personalities, footwear designs and marketing to complement them.

McEnroe’s defiant attitude and counterculture style helped make a not-made-for-tennis Nike sneaker popular in the sport.
ITHF Museum Collection
Eccentric tennis star and New York-native John McEnroe helped broaden American brand Nike’s presence in the game. McEnroe’s defiant attitude and counterculture style helped make a not-made-for-tennis Nike sneaker popular in the sport. In 1986, Nike sent the player a prototype of the Nike Air Trainer 1, a sneaker that was intended for cross-training in the gym. The brand instructed McEnroe to not wear them during tournament play, which he disregarded and cemented the mid-top leather sneaker with a forefoot strap in pop culture in the process by debuting the Nike Trainer 1 on the tennis court. The training shoes were later exclusively modified for McEnroe to play on grass and clay surfaces. Nike later released marketing with McEnroe in the sneaker walking through the streets if New York City in a trench coat themed “Rebel with a Cause,” which was a departure from how most sports brands were advertising their tennis athletes at the time.


Chris Evert's iconic red and white Converse sneakers
Photo Credit: John Russell Collection / ITHF
ITHF Museum Collection
On the women’s side, Chris Evert would receive a signature tennis sneaker from Converse. By the time the Converse Chris Evert was released, the International Tennis Hall of Famer had already been recognized as Associated Press’ Female Athlete of the year several times, as well as Sports Illustrated’s Sportswoman of the Year. Her signature Converse sneaker was advertised as specifically designed for a woman’s foot and featured Evert’s name emblazoned on the tongue.

The 1980s also saw Nike signing a then 16-year-old Andre Agassi. The player’s unique look and style of play would carry the brand’s tennis sneakers into the next decade and beyond. Similar to Borg’s unabashed style, whom Agassi admitted looking up to, Agassi typified an anti-country club approach to tennis. Agassi’s Nike collection included fluorescent colorways, audacious patterns and materials like denim. His signature sneaker, the Air Tech Challenge II, personified irreverence with a visible Nike Air unit for cushioning and hot lava color accents that were later spotted on musicians like Megadeth guitarist David Mustaine and even former president George H.W. Bush.
The adidas Edberg Comp was a bulky tech-heavy signature sneaker designed for Swedish tennis ace Stefan Edberg after his first Grand Slam win in Australia. Similar to Agassi’s Tech Challenge, the Edberg’s colors spoke to the era with accents of deep purple, pink, and bright blues.


Stefan Edberg's adidas® shoes from Wimbledon, 1988
ITHF Museum Collection
Photo Credit: John Russell Collection / ITHF

The FILA Tennis 88 x Biggie Collection was inspired by Biggie and 1990's Brooklyn streetwear.
Photo credit: Fondazione FILA Museum


FILA's Seles 2A Sneaker
Photo credit: Fondazione FILA Museum

Pete Sampras' Nike Air Oscillate sneakers from Wimbledon, 1998
ITHF Museum Collection


Stefan Edberg's adidas® shoes from Wimbledon, 1988
ITHF Museum Collection
Photo Credit: John Russell Collection / ITHF
By the time the sport entered the 1990s, tennis sneakers translated farther beyond the courts they were used to play on. Not only were modern performance shoes like Nike’s Air Tech Challenge, adidas Edberg, and the Wilson Pro Staff regularly worn for athletic use, but other tennis sneaker models were being used as fashion statements on the streets.

The FILA Tennis 88 x Biggie Collection was inspired by Biggie and 1990's Brooklyn streetwear.
Photo credit: Fondazione FILA Museum
Sneakers like FILA's T-1, which featured a leather upper and traction pattern on the outsole that was made up of the brand’s trademark “F” logos, or Puma’s California model that was worn by Argentine player Guillermo Vilas become among some of the favorites in hip-hop culture.
The connection between tennis sneakers and hip-hop was even celebrated on a special collection of FILA Tennis 88 sneakers that was inspired by Biggie Smalls and 1990s streetwear. The capsule released in 2020 to mark the 25th anniversary of the rapper’s debut album Ready to Die.


FILA's Seles 2A Sneaker
Photo credit: Fondazione FILA Museum
Contrastingly, performance tennis sneakers on the court continued to evolve to fit the personalities of pros in the 1990s era. Sportswear brands continued to create product based off of the needs of their signature endorsers.
FILA debuted a new line of sneakers for number one ranked tennis player in the world Monica Seles in 1991. The sneakers were indicative of Seles’ now legendary status in tennis and performance needs for the sport at the time, as well as her personal style. The Seles 2A sneaker featured the brand’s 2A shock absorption system, but also the aesthetic of doodle-like decorations such as suns, flowers, and stars that were similarly conveyed on patterns of her clothing.

Pete Sampras' Nike Air Oscillate sneakers from Wimbledon, 1998
ITHF Museum Collection
Unlike the pirate-like styled looks that Andre Agassi was serving on the tennis courts, Pete Sampras showcased a more subdued sensibility. That style was reflected in his signature Nike sneaker, the Air Oscillate, in its sensible white leather upper with navy blue accents. Sampras, who prior to receiving the Nike Air Oscillate wore the same tennis shoe model his entire career, wore the Nike Air Oscillate for the remainder of his career. Sampras was only convinced of trying the new shoe when the sneaker’s designer Tinker Hatfield tricked the player into wearing them during a game of pick-up basketball. What the Nike Air Oscillate lacked in flare, it made up with in innovation by introducing a carbon fiber plate to tennis sneakers for the benefit of stability on the court.

FILA Take Tennis Shoes
FILA (Italian)
Fondazione FILA Museum

Tennis Shoes worn by Monica Seles at the 1991 US Open
FILA (Italian)
ITHF Museum Collection

Seles 2A Tennis Shoes
FILA (Italian)
Fondazione FILA Museum

Tennis Shoes worn by Ivan Lendl
mizuno (Japanese)
ITHF Museum Collection

FILA Ferreira Tennis Shoes
FILA (Italian)
Fondazione FILA Museum

Tennis Shoes worn by Stefanie Graf at the 1996 US Open
adidas (German)
ITHF Museum Collection

Tennis Shoes worn by Gabriela Sabatini at the 1996 European Indoors
FILA (Italian)
ITHF Museum Collection

Tennis shoe worn by Gustavo Kuerten at 1997 Roland-Garros
Diadora (Italian)
ITHF Museum Collection

Tennis Shoes worn by Pete Sampras at the 1998 Wimbledon Championships
Nike, Inc. (American)
ITHF Museum Collection

FILA Rad Tennis Shoes
FILA (Italian)
Fondazione FILA Museum

Jennifer Capriati in the singles final at the 2001 Austrlian Open
Photo Credit: AP


Serena Williams' Puma Extrena WN
ITHF Museum Collection
Photo Credit: Mike Baz

Jennifer Capriati in the singles final at the 2001 Austrlian Open
Photo Credit: AP
Heading into the 2000s, technology in tennis sneakers began to shift. Performance sneakers for tennis progressively became lighter weight and lower profile when compared to the shoes of the 1980s and 1990s, thanks to new forms of cushioning and lightweight, synthetic, breathable material innovations in the upper.
From a marketing perspective, female tennis pros continued to build off the foundation set by Hall of Famers like Billie Jean King and Chris Evert. Athletes like Jennifer Capriati were connecting with brands that aligned with their personas and style of play.
With her career making a comeback after hiatus, Capriati signed with FILA at the turn of the millennium. Commonalties between the player and the company were obvious as both had Italian heritage and the brand itself was also making a comeback in the sport. The partnership proved to be kismet as the tennis pro went from being ranked No. 139 to No. 1 in the world in FILA's Torneo shoe.


Serena Williams' Puma Extrena WN
ITHF Museum Collection
Photo Credit: Mike Baz
Serena Williams began her illustrious tennis career endorsing Puma and won six Grand Slam titles wearing the brand’s shoes that featured its Cell cushioning technology. One of the most memorable from Williams line with Puma was a gold pair of the Puma Extrena WN that she wore to win the 2002 French Open.
After Williams’ five-year deal with Puma ended, she went on to sign a sponsorship with Nike where she won 17 more Grand Slams in the brand’s sneakers and was utilized in the Beaverton, Oregon-based company’s marketing campaigns outside of just tennis. To celebrate William’s 23rd Grand Slam title, Nike recreated a successful Michael Jordan ad from 1985 with Serena Williams’ feet. The campaign was not just a nod to Jordan’s Chicago Bulls number of 23, but also feted a crossover collection of tennis sneakers in the style of the original Air Jordan. The sneakers, which used Williams Nike Flare as a canvas, showed the crossover appeal of tennis shoes into overall sneaker culture.

These sleek black shoes were custom engineered for Maria Sharapova and match her Riccardo Tisci-designed outfit worn at the 2017 US Open.
ITHF Museum Collection

These sleek black shoes were custom engineered for Maria Sharapova and match her Riccardo Tisci-designed outfit worn at the 2017 US Open.
ITHF Museum Collection
Not only were performance tennis shoes resonating with hardcore sneaker collectors, but they were also intersecting with high fashion couture. Athletes and brands began partnering with high-end fashion designers for looks on the court and on the runways.
In addition to creating special colorways for special events like the Davis Cup and the Olympics, Grand Slam events doubled as big stages for sneaker collaborations and special products. The US Open in particular has become a moment for tennis and fashion to unite.
For example, Maria Sharapova collaborated with former Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci on a pair of all black sneakers for the New York-based major in 2017 to pair with her Swarovski-studded tennis dress. The tuxedo-like shoes were designed based off the theme of elegance for Sharapova’s evening matches.

Tennis Shoes worn by Roger Federer at the 2005 US Open
Nike, Inc. (American)
ITHF Museum Collection

Tennis Shoes worn by Svetlana Kuznetsova at 2009 Roland-Garros
FILA (Italian)
ITHF Museum Collection

Kim Clijsters' tennis shoes worn at the 2009 US Open
FILA (Italian)
ITHF Museum Collection

Tennis Shoes worn by Andy Roddick at the 2012 US Open
Babolat (French)
ITHF Museum Collection

Tennis Shoes worn by Andy Murray at the 2012 US Open
adidas (German)
ITHF Museum Collection

Tennis Shoes worn by Bob Bryan at the 2014 US Open
K-Swiss (American)
ITHF Museum Collection

“Nike Zoom” Tennis Shoes designed for Maria Sharapova, 2017
Nike, Inc. (American)
ITHF Museum Collection

Ash Barty's Axilus 2 Energized Tennis Shoes from 2019 Roland-Garros
FILA (Italian)
ITHF Museum Collection


FILA x Gosha Rubchinskiy Original Tennis sneakers (white) & FILA T-1 Mid sneakers (black)
Photo credit: Fondazione FILA Museum


FILA x Packer x International Tennis Hall of Fame sneakers
Photo credit: Fondazione FILA Museum

Pharrell Williams wearing Stan Smith shoes at the 2nd Annual "Rebels With a Cause" Gala benefiting the USC Center for Applied Molecular Medicine at Paramount Pictures Studios on March 20, 2014.
Photo by Dan Steinberg/Invision/AP Images


Some People Think I'm a Shoe! Written by Stan Smith and foreword by Pharrell Williams
©2018 Rizzoli


FILA x Gosha Rubchinskiy Original Tennis sneakers (white) & FILA T-1 Mid sneakers (black)
Photo credit: Fondazione FILA Museum
Retro tennis sneakers from the 1970s and 1980s have also served as canvases for designers in streetwear and on the runways of fashion. Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy collaborated with FILA on a limited collection of tennis sneakers and apparel that added Italian luxury details to FILA Tennis.


FILA x Packer x International Tennis Hall of Fame sneakers
Photo credit: Fondazione FILA Museum
The brand also collaborated with sneaker and streetwear boutique Packer Shoes and the International Tennis Hall of Fame on limited edition versions of the FILA Original Tennis and T-1 Mid sneakers that debuted during the 2015 Hall of Fame Tennis Championships in Newport.

Pharrell Williams wearing Stan Smith shoes at the 2nd Annual "Rebels With a Cause" Gala benefiting the USC Center for Applied Molecular Medicine at Paramount Pictures Studios on March 20, 2014.
Photo by Dan Steinberg/Invision/AP Images
After adidas took the Stan Smith sneaker off the market for a period of two years in 2012 and 2013, the sneaker would have a major comeback in the world of fashion. Celine designer Phoebe Philo took her final bow on the runway in a pair of the sneakers. Other designers such as Raf Simons, Stella McCartney, Yohji Yamamoto, and Pharrell Williams have all used the Stan Smith as a base for their product collaborations with adidas. The brand itself has also re-released several different versions of the shoe in updated materials and for different special projects.


Some People Think I'm a Shoe! Written by Stan Smith and foreword by Pharrell Williams
©2018 Rizzoli
Full Circle
Perhaps there’s no better representation of the tennis sneaker’s cultural significance than the adidas Stan Smith. While it may not be used as a performance tennis sneaker now the silhouette has been touched multiple genres, from hip-hop to sneaker culture to high-fashion, and even sustainable design.
Sneakers and the sport of tennis have now been interconnected for over 60 years, so much so that the term tennis shoes can be interchanged with the word sneaker. While the tennis shoe has come a long way since the crude rubber soles melded together with canvas of the early 1900s, they mean nothing to the culture without the people who play tennis in them.
Gerald Flores is a writer who's been published in Esquire, Complex, and The New York Times. He formerly served as the editor-in-chief of Sole Collector magazine and contributed to and edited Complex's first book on sneakers "Complex Presents Sneaker of the Year: The Best Since 85." You can follow him on social media at @ImgeraLd.
The International Tennis Hall of Fame relies on contributions from fans like you to bring our digital collections to life.
Stay Connected!
Subscribe to receive the latest news from the International Tennis Hall of Fame.
- "In the Beginning" background photo: ITHF Museum Collection
- "Open for Business" background photo of Billie Jean King: Russ Adams Productions
- "The First Faces of Tennis Sneakers" background photo of Stan Smith: ITHF Museum Collection
- "A New Era of Personalities" background photo of John McEnroe & Björn Borg: Getty Images
- "From the Courts to the Streets" background photo of Andre Agassi: Mike Baz
- "A New Millennium" background photo of Serena Williams: John Russell Collection / ITHF
- "The Tennis Courts Turn Into Runways" background photo of Maria Sharapova: AP
- "The Runways Turns Into Tennis Courts" background photo: ITHF Museum Collection